![]() I love revisiting the Museu Cau Ferrat, which was once the atelier of Santiago Rusiñol, one of Spain’s best-loved Impressionist painters, and the adjacent Palau de Maricel, the extravagant home of the American industrialist Charles Deering, heir to the International Harvester Company and Rusiñol’s patron. We wouldn’t even need a menu when we arrived, because we both craved the red-shrimp carpaccio and squid ink fideuà, stubby vermicelli noodles cooked in seafood bouillon with squid ink and garnished with chunks of cuttlefish, baby clams and peeled white shrimp, served with a side of aioli. ![]() I’d booked a table at Costa Dorada, a restaurant on the esplanade overlooking the crescent-shaped wave-lapped Platja de Sant Sebastià, one of the most popular beaches in Sitges. And in Sitges, they also signal the town’s longstanding tolerance of human differences, including its acceptance of gay travelers, which might be branded as eccentric, or worse, elsewhere. The 69 mansions that survive are landmarked and protected today, and several of them have become hotels.įor me they’ve always epitomized the admirable way Catalan culture is receptive to creative anarchy as seen in the works of an architect like Antoni Gaudí, an artist like Salvador Dalí, or even a chef like Ferran Adrià. They were mostly built by the Americanos, as the locals called the Sitgean emigrants who made their fortunes in Cuba or Puerto Rico and then returned home, many of them at the end of the Spanish-American War.
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